Food Buzz


Because maybe you do care what I had for lunch...

Thursday, July 19, 2007

JZ Cool Eatery

Paraphrasing Fugue Salad, what's in a name, anyway?

Our last night with Lane's parents here we went out for dinner once more, this time at the restaurant of one of Alice Waters' inheritors, Jesse Ziff Cool. I mentioned Cool Cafe at the Cantor in a previous post. Cool also has the Flea Street Cafe (fancy, expensive-ish, soooo tempting) and the more casual, recently reopened JZ Cool Eatery. I had the meltingly yummy braised short ribs with crisp leeks and Lane had the chicken thighs stuffed with goat cheese and preserved lemons, also delectable. My in-laws had the salmon, caught in Alaska just two days ago. Jasper had the fun lollipop chicken. These are chicken drumsticks with all the meat pushed to the end so the bone is exposed as a handle. The cook was kind enough to leave off the chipotle sauce.

I finally got my chocolate cake fix (though your recommendations are duly noted, Janet!). Theirs is rich and dark, layered with strawberries and topped with chocolate sauce and mousse. Lane had a berries and peach cobbler and his parents had a bread pudding. They looked good, but I think I got the best dessert.

The wine menu presents a democratic landscape -- all wines are local, and all cost the same amount. If you show up for the re-opening party Friday you get a free glass of wine. Any locals reading? Like the zillionares in Silicon Valley need free wine.

Overall, great food, great service, attractive new space. I just wish... she'd come up with a different name for her restaurant. I feel dorky saying "let's go to JZ Cool's!" It sounds like an 80's men's store. Ah well, when you name yourself after an Allman Brothers song, you kind of sign up for the kind of heart-on-your-sleeve sincerity that results in this soulfully delicious and karma-free food. So I shouldn't complain.

Alas, I must return to my own cooking tomorrow. I mean! Can't wait to start cooking again. Incidentally, I made lollipop chicken the other day, following Cookie's instructions. It's a little tricky. Give yourself time to wrestle a little with the skin and plan on cutting out the toughest tendons. But it's a definite kid pleaser.

1 comment:

Luisa Perkins said...

Good grief. What to do with all the excess saliva?