What I Made for Dinner

I've moved!

2009-06-28T08:48:00.001-04:00

I have been lured to the greener pastures of Squarespace. You can now read about What I Made for Dinner Here!

Lychee

2009-06-24T22:55:00.003-04:00

The Food Coop had lychee! They're easy to peel and so, so sweet. Lane doesn't like the texture, which you could describe as eyeball-like. But I'm willing to overlook the texture.

Stone fruit braised lamb

2009-06-24T22:46:00.002-04:00

Another unappetizing photo, alas.

Nectarines and apricots haven't fallen from trees in the Northeast yet as far as I know. These babies definitely come from south of the Mason-Dixon line. But after months of apples I couldn't resist. Here is the non-recipe recipe.

1. Brown chunks of lamb kebab meat, cut into 1-inch square pieces, on high heat.
2. Add about 5 halved apricots and three quartered nectarines.
3. Add salt and pepper to taste.
4. Drizzle about 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar.
5. Throw in a couple of cinnamon sticks.
6. Lower heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes.

I tried this with millet--my first attempt at cooking it. I hear it's less acidic than other grains. I toasted it first before cooking it in water but wasn't thrilled with the results. I'll have to keep tinkering with the millet, but the lamb with fruit was tartly tasty.

What fresh mustard greens hell is this?

2009-06-21T16:59:00.003-04:00

I meant that in a good way. I bought some "salad mix" plants at Jasper's plant sale this spring and the packs were not labeled. So I'm wondering what variety these spicy mustard greens are. Osaka purple, maybe? Whatever the variety, the just-picked leaves were so sharp and spicy they nearly knocked me off my feet. I really liked how they brought my Black Forest ham and fresh mozzarella sandwich to life.

I also like this short piece from Devil and Egg on the delights of red mustard greens. Wish I hadn't just eaten the last of ours!

Family-sized strawberry cake

2009-06-21T16:34:00.003-04:00

One of the reasons why I don't bake very much is because most recipes produce quantities too large for us to consume in a timely manner. I'll bake for an event, but if it's just for us the cookies, cupcakes, and pies linger longer than their deliciousness lasts. I know it sounds perverse, but you really can have too much of a good thing, even homemade desserts.

When I was growing up in a five-kid family, the food marketing term "family-sized" meant gigantic. It still does, I believe. But my idea of family-sized food means something a wee bit more diminutive given our one-kid family, especially since that one kid practically lives on air. Cutting recipes in half makes me nervous. I still remember a mathematician trying to tell me that it won't actually work--his explanation had something to do with pi. Anyway, with cookies you can freeze half the dough. But what about cake?

I've found my family-sized dessert recipes lately in Nigella Lawson's cookbook Feast. Ordinarily I don't like celebrity chefs and authors, but I love using this cookbook because Nigella has such excellent taste. So far her desserts are all on the small size and do not overstay their welcome in our kitchen.

I used her Love Buns recipe to make strawberry cake the other day. The recipe is actually for cupcakes (12 instead of the usual 24) but it worked well for a one-pan cake.

1/2 cup plus 1 T unsalted butter
1/2 cup plus 1 T sugar
2 eggs
3/4 cup flour
1/2 teastpoon baking soda
2 teaspoons vanilla
2 tablespoons buttermilk
1/2 cup fresh, chopped strawberries

Preheat oven to 400 degrees and butter and flour one 9-inch round cake pan. Cream together butter, sugar, and eggs. Mix in vanilla and buttermilk. Sift together flour and baking soda. Combine flour mixture with butter mixture. Gently stir in strawberries. Pour batter into pan and bake for 10 minutes. Turn pan and bake another 10-15 minutes until cake is done.

How to ruin a perfectly good strawberry cake

2009-06-21T16:30:00.002-04:00

Let a five-year-old decorate it with sprinkles and too much frosting.

Slow Food Flourishes in Monsanto's Back Yard

2009-06-18T11:11:00.014-04:00

Everyone, please welcome Kim Shreck, who was kind enough to write a guest post on the fabulous Slow Food-sponsored Lambstravaganza in Missouri. Kim often chimes in here with advice for vegetarian dishes, but the below post is her first forray back into the the carnivore world in years. Enjoy!

Dear What I Made For Dinner readers:

Adriana has invited me to share with you some particulars of an amazing Slow Food event I recently attended, perhaps to inspire you to look for similar events in your area. On June 7 of this year I attended the fourth annual LAMBSTRAVAGANZA, a fundraiser for the St. Louis Convivium of Slow Food USA. Check out this menu!

I had known of this event in past years but did not attend due to having given up eating meat when I married a long-time vegetarian. Giving up meat had been easy once I began to learn about the health and environmental damage caused by mass-produced, genetically-engineered, hormone-injected meat (and the food our meat eats). This year I was persuaded by a friend and repeat LAMBSTRAVAGANZA attendee to see and experience aspects of eating I valued from a grassroots standpoint (please forgive the corny pun), plus, she bought me a ticket for my 40th birthday. So I jumped off the vegetarian wagon for a day and oh, what a way to relapse!

Prairie Grass Farm owner Dave Hillebrand is a third-generation farmer on 520 acres of land in Montgomery County, MO. His farm, located an hour west of St. Louis, produces about 700 lambs for market each year, as well as 120 dozen eggs per week which, like his lamb, are sold to local farmers markets and restaurants. All the livestock on the Hillebrand farm are free-range, fed on pesticide-free grasses.

Mr. Hillebrand demonstrated his commitment to all phases of food production by standing amid his sheep in their grazing field, hoisting a clump of grass above his head at the beginning of the tour of his farm, declaring, "It is here where it all starts." He explained that chemical-free grass means pure meat, milk, and eggs for us to consume, a cycle of life the chemical company Monsanto (headquartered in St. Louis) has been messing with--to the great disadvantage of consumers and small farmers alike--throughout most of the past century. Since attending the event I have climbed back aboard the tofu wagon; however, I have no regrets about supporting a local grower and his family's commitment to healthy and sustainable food production, and to sampling the amazing lamb-centric dishes created by the best St. Louis restaurant chefs, all of whom privilege local and sustainable foods on their menus. Quoting directly from the Slow Food St. Louis mission statement, here are the reasons why I willingly lapsed for a day to get up close and personal with meat in a way that felt surprisingly virtuous:

Slow Food is good, clean, and fair food. We believe that the food we eat should taste good, that it should be produced in a clean way that does not harm the environment, animal welfare, or our health, and that food producers should receive fair compensation for their work.

We consider ourselves co-producers, not consumers, because by being informed about how our food is produced and actively supporting those who produce it, we become a part of and a partner in the production process.

(Note: one need not be a member of Slow Food USA to participate in events like LAMBSTRAVAGANZA, though there is usually a discounted price for members.)

The fourth of seven lamb dishes served was, unfortunately, the first one I remembered to photograph. This dish creatively utilized fancy condiments such as saffron aioli and charmoula sauce to highlight and moisten smoked meat that might otherwise have been a bit dry and dull. My apologies to you fans of good bar-b-que, and I do know it is a religion for some, but I just don't understand why the artistry of smoked meat would ever be applied to tender lamb, which does not require slow cooking for tenderness. It was indeed fork-tender, and the saffron aioli rocked. But most of this dish I happily donated to other diners in order that I might conserve room for dishes more to my personal liking (i.e. the rare stuff).

The preceding course, which I did not photograph, was one of my two favorites of the day. Imagine a plate of rare slices of the juiciest leg of lamb topped with a crispy gremolata (lemon zest, mint, and fried garlic chips), shaved radish salad, and a delicate goats' milk feta produced by milk from the happy, grass-fed goats of Prairie Grass Farms.

Josh Galliano of Monarch, one my favorite St. Louis chefs, forever cemented his place in my affections when he attempted to give all the credit for this wonderful dish to the teen aged Hillebrand daughter (below, holding the brown kidd), who milked the goats for the feta garnish to his leg of lamb, leaving her beaming with pride as she was applauded by ~85 happy diners.

The fifth and sixth lamb dishes were both superb. Another favorite St. Louis chef, Gerard Craft of Niche, demonstrated why he continues to win most of the "best of" awards, as well as why he was a finalist for the James Beard nomination for Best Midwestern Chef earlier this year. His "Faggotini" (or little purses) of lambs' tongue floating in a delicate lamb and mint broth and topped with crushed cocoa nibs put a whole new spin on the pairing of lamb and mint, as well as mint and chocolate.

Chef Lou Rook of Annie Gunn's made some heavenly, soft-as-butter and equally rich, lamb chops cut from whole racks. Words cannot describe how perfectly simple and simply delightful this dish was, so hopefully the picture speaks for itself.

Chef Kevin Nasham of Sidney Street Cafe produced the most beautiful (if not also the tastiest) dish of the day. His lamb loin and sweetbreads was served with local baby golden beets and red beet risotto, local micro greens, and a touch of visual magic.

A tough act to follow, to be sure, but Christy Augustin, also of Sidney Street Cafe, did not disappoint with her lovely pistachio cream-filled pate choux served with local strawberries, jam, and honey. One must admire not only the beauty of each dish but the grand execution of assembly-line style cooking in the open air on a farm, far from a professional kitchen. All of the participating chefs are to be commended for enduring this unique challenge.

To conclude, this post is meant not only to encourage everyone to check out events of this sort in your area, but also to applaud everyone who is doing his or her part to counter the mercenary trends that have sponsored a renewed, highly necessary interest in sustainable, fair, locally-produced food that is eaten as well as produced by conscientious humans. To learn more about Monsanto's egregious policies and products you may wish to avoid, see: Millions Against Monsanto Campaign - Organic Consumers Association To find your nearest Slow Food Convivium, as well as restaurants and markets that support local growers in your area, see Slow Food USA

If you are ever in St. Louis and want to try one of these fine restaurants with me, I am always looking for an excuse. You can contact me at kim.schreck (at) gmail dot com

Kim Schreck is a foodie/locavore residing in St. Louis who loves to cook and feed people. She also teaches US race and gender history and is a member of the Women, Gender, and Sexuality Studies Program at Washington University in St. Louis.

Blogging from Brooklyn Creative League

2009-06-18T09:01:00.002-04:00

Today I'll be heading over to the Bloggers' Workday at Brooklyn Creative League, a cool new workspace for freelancers. I also have guest post by Kim Schreck on the Lamb Extravaganza she attended in Missouri--I'm so excited about it! More soon after I slog through the rain this morning.

Buttermilk chicken with scallions and cherry tomatoes

2009-06-17T16:50:00.002-04:00

I have to tell you, raw milk buttermilk from a farm is quite a different substance from the usual buttermilk we all know. For one thing, no thickeners are added, so it's actually quite thin. Also, it doesn't curdle as easily when exposed to high temperatures. It does curdle a little, but not like conventional buttermilk.

I braised some boneless, skinless chicken thighs in this buttermilk with chopped scallions and cherry tomatoes for about half an hour. Then I removed the thighs and vegetables, added a splash of vermouth, and reduced the cooking liquid until I got a wonderful, golden sauce. This made for the tenderest chicken I've ever had and a sauce that evoked home-made caramels and a grassy field. Yum, yum, yum.

5 1/2

2009-06-15T22:42:00.005-04:00

I mentioned that Jasper had agreed to postpone his birthday party until the summer, when we could hold the party in Prospect Park (his birthday is in January). Well, we finally did it this weekend and had a great time. We're so lucky that Jasper has brought all these lovely people into our lives!

But since this is a food blog, I'll tell you what I made.

Spanish tortilla hors'd'oeuvres with garlic mayonnaise, carrot and cucumber sticks with ginger yogurt dip, strawberries, and kid feed (Veggie Booty, Annie's snack mix). Please note my son's plate: he served himself tortilla, carrots, and strawberries, along with the kid feed. Makes his mama proud! Of course, he soon ran away to play and forgot about his food.

Watermelon and lime agua fresca in a jug I found at Target.

My first cheesecake! I used this Junior's inspired recipe, which has a couple errors but nothing fatal. I think mine could have done with another 5-10 minutes in the oven. Jasper specifically requested cheesecake--he loves it.

Technically edible but not delicious was the Sonic pinata we made Jasper. We filled it with candy Jasper and I picked out at Dylan's Candy Bar. The ring pops were a big hit. When the candy fell out I panicked momentarily, wondering if I hadn't packed enough. Then I remembered that it's candy, and that none of the parents probably wanted their kids to eat that much of it anyway. It's the idea more than the quantity, right?

We also made glarch, or tried to. I forgot to bring measuring cups, so I had to eyeball the measurements. Also, the proportions (1:1) didn't seem to work--I think you need far less starch than glue. Still, the kids enjoyed the activity. Instead of giving away gift bags full of little toys I handed out reusable cloth bags for gathering the candy and bringing home the glarch.

The rain held out until after the cake but the party went on. While most of us parents huddled under a tree, the kids and a few brave parents played in the rain late into the afternoon.

Food Inc.

2009-06-10T23:44:00.002-04:00

I am all a buzz over Food Inc. I just saw the Brooklyn premiere, sponsored by Brooklyn Based, at The Bell House. The film tells the story of where our food comes from, and the crazy, unsustainable, unhealthy way we have been growing and processing our food for the last 40 years.

Even though I am the converted I was overwhelmed with the emotional impact of the film. As a writer married to a visual artist I'm always aware of the limitations of the printed word. Oh I know, mightier than the sword and all that. But try getting people who read a whole book vs. look at a painting. I'm so glad that so many food-related stories have been distilled into film, this incredibly accessible medium.

The filmmakers do an excellent job of exploiting the medium, too, joining compelling narrative with visual impact. I'm pleased to report that Secretary of Agriculture Tom Vilsack has seen Food Inc., it is being screened for several state legislatures, and it's been translated into Spanish. If you haven't read Omnivore's Dilemma, Fast Food Nation, etc., this movie will be a real eye opener for you. If enough people see this movie it could completely upend our whole food system. I am so excited! Please, please, go see this movie!

When bad things happen to good food

2009-06-10T10:15:00.003-04:00

Last night's dinner held such promise. I was going to roast some garlic scrapes and purple spring onions and braise some tarragon chicken. The roasted alliums were almost there--I roasted them at 400 degrees with olive oil and fig balsamic vinegar. But I think I should have roasted at a lower temperature for much longer. Still, they were okay, if a little chewy.

But the chicken. I crammed too many pieces into the pan. I didn't have chicken stock to braise and used only vermouth. I forgot to drain the fat after browning, and when I added the vermouth there was splattering, I jerked my hand back and splashed vermouth on the stove, and the whole thing went up in flames.

I thought of two things at that moment. I wondered if I could even figure out how to use the fire extinguisher located under the sink right behind me. And I thought about When You Are Engulfed In Flames, how it's out in paperback now, and how I wouldn't be able to read it if I burned down the kitchen.

Fortunately, alcohol fires are short lived. By the time Lane found me the flames were gone and I could pretend nothing had happened--just screaming for fun. For joy! Alas, the chicken was not so good, though this was not the fault of the vermouth. I had mixed some soft, lazy Murray's chicken with some truly free-range, athletic, Lance Armstrong legs. The latter should have been stewed for about two hours in stock and lard, so lean and tough were they. The tarragon was in cinders.

Having learned my lesson, I did absolutely nothing to the gorgeous Hepworth Farms strawberries I bought for dessert. We ate them just as they are.

Garden salad

2009-06-08T23:32:00.004-04:00

Here's one reason to like all the cool, rainy weather we've been having: the greens on my roof. I harvested them this weekend for a salad tossed with basil leaves and dressed only in a little sea salt. We had lemony tatsoi, sharp arugula, and this lovely speckled lettuce.

I also grew a few radishes. I especially like the peanut shaped one. Thanks to Mom for those seeds!

Raw

2009-06-06T11:45:00.003-04:00

First of all, it was not my intention to leave the Craigsicle up for so long. I'm a little embarrassed now.

But what's even better? Finally finding a source for raw milk! After years of deliberation and procrastination, I have signed up for one of those farm delivery services. This week's delivery included this gallon jar of raw milk (yes, it is hard to pour from a jar), kefir, yogurt, buttermilk, eggs, chicken, dreamy sourdough sandwich bread, and sweet delicate lettuce. I'm kicking myself now for not ordering the butter as well because it looked amazing.

So why raw? Well, so long as the cow is grass fed, hormone/antibiotic free, and otherwise sustainably raised, and as long as the milk is handled safely (easier done on a small, independently-owned farm), raw milk has numerous health benefits (more CLAs for starters) and contains its own antibacterial agents. It's also richer and more delicious. I'm doing this partly because I want to help support small, local farms and because when you buy food directly from a farm it's usually just yummier.

You can't just buy raw milk in the store here in New York. You can only buy directly from the farm or buy a share of a cow. It's complicated. One of the reasons I've put it off for so long is because, while what I'm doing is entirely legal, there's a clandestine aura about buying raw milk. I kept picturing myself on a street corner somewhere singing "I'm Waiting for My Man." But once you get all set up it's almost as easy as going to the farmer's market.

Daniel Craig popsicle

2009-06-02T09:49:00.004-04:00

So. I have a bit of a crush on Daniel Craig. Don't make me talk about it. Ordinarily I have crushes on loftier types like Raj Patel but a few years ago I saw Casino Royale and....

Where was I?

Right! The popsicle. In honor of British National Ice Cream Week a food processing company produced a popsicle in the shape of Daniel Craig as the result of a poll. This is just to say to my sisters across the pond, yes, well done indeed! And also, when will this be available in the states? Summer is coming, you see.

Tortilla tip

2009-06-01T10:16:00.004-04:00

I made a giant batch of enchiladas Saturday for the dinner and finally found a solution to a vexing problem. Since I don't live near a tortilla factory and didn't have time to make 50 corn tortillas from scratch this weekend I had to make do, as usual, with stiff, crumbly tortillas from the grocery store. On their own they don't roll; they fold and then break. The typical method is to fry the tortillas briefly in hot oil before adding the filling and rolling. Cook's Illustrated suggests spraying the tortillas with cooking oil and baking--a method that requires more counter space and cookie sheets than I have, especially for a double batch. Also, both methods add grease to the dish.

Instead, I steamed the tortillas, and it worked like a charm! I set up my own steamer with a basket over a pot. It's best to work in small batches, or the tortillas on the bottom will turn to mush. In fact, once the tortillas have steamed for a few minutes start working from the bottom up. Even tortillas that haven't had much time to steam come out curling slightly, which helps a great deal. Ole!

Global cake

2009-06-01T10:04:00.004-04:00

You know how you see something amazing in a magazine and think, like foolish Icharus, "I could do that!" And so you try and it turns out to be quite a bit more difficult than you'd thought?

We had our annual International Potluck Dinner at Jasper's school this weekend and I took on this globe (well, hemisphere) cake from Cookie. The cake itself is easy--you just bake it in an oven-proof bowl. The tricky part is sculpting the continents with fondant, a prepared frosting that resembles play dough which you can mold. I used colored fondant, but in retrospect I should have used white fondant and drawn the continents on with food coloring pens. Even better, a catering friend of mine suggested that marzipan might taste better and work almost as well. Next time! Ha ha.

You can sort of make out Finland and Sweden, Africa, Saudi Arabia, India--I ran out of green and had to do some continents in yellow. And then I ran out of blue and had to improvise with a sun in the east and a moon in the west.

Melted butter counts as a sauce

2009-05-29T09:52:00.004-04:00

It does. Not at a restaurant, of course, but definitely at home. To save time I boiled a bag of pasta for five minutes, then added the sliced carrots and cooked another five minutes. After I drained the pasta and carrots I stirred in a stick of butter, minced tarragon, and fresh lemon juice. The bowl smelled like a lemon poppy seed muffin.

Meanwhile, I browned two chicken legs in olive oil, turned, added a bit of chicken stock and a sprig each of tarragon and thyme, and simmered covered for a while, Then I chopped up a bunch of garlic greens (scallions would also work), added them to the pan, and cooked another five minutes.

Kid friendly and easy. Let's just forget about that whole stick of butter, though, shall we?

Beer can chicken

2009-05-28T12:02:00.002-04:00

Last week I posted on One Little Bite about beer can chicken. Well, we tried it this weekend and it was (mostly) a success. The March/April Cooks Illustrated had an article on doing this indoors that included a glaze recipe and tips for crisp skin. We grilled outdoors and skipped the glaze, but I did apply their skin crisping tips: making incisions into the skin for fat drainage, adding a bit of baking powder to the salt rub, and letting the chicken air dry in the refrigerator for an hour before grilling.

After an hour and a half of grilling we checked on the chicken and discovered that the fire had gone out. Blast! I forgot to ventilate. But the chicken was almost completely done. We took the bird off, got the coals hot again, and split the bird in half to expedite the cooking. The skin was still juicy and flavorful, and the skin was the crispest I've ever had from the grill! Perfecting this method is going to be my summer project.

Lamb with strawberry rhubarb sauce

2009-05-26T00:07:00.003-04:00

The other day I mentioned a recipe from Simply Organic, lamb with a strawberry rhubarb sauce. I think I need to make this again soon while the rhubarb is still here. Without giving too much away, you broil the lamb chops with rosemary and then make the sauce with rhubarb, strawberries, and balsamic vinegar. Simply fantastic. I love this cookbook.

Lime pickle + hot dogs

2009-05-26T00:03:00.003-04:00

Have I ever told you that lime pickle is especially good on hot dogs? Well it is. It plays nicely with sauerkraut and mustard.

Oricchiette with fava beans and ramps

2009-05-21T10:36:00.002-04:00

Aside from the fava beans, this was very simple to prepare and even Jasper liked it. I tossed cooked oricchiette with fava beans, chopped ramps (including the greens), sliced green olives, toasted pistachios, crumbled feta, olive oil, and lemon juice.

Does anyone have a source for frozen fava beans? I'm a firm believer in fresh-is-best, but those darn fava beans are a whole lot of trouble. Feh!

Kids eating well

2009-05-20T23:23:00.002-04:00

If you've got kids and you live in Washington D.C., Chicago, or New York, check out Kids' Restaurant Week. It's co-sponsored by Gourmet and Cookie and proceeds go to local charities. Eat well, do good, what's not to love?

While you're contemplating a good meal with your young ones, see the dispatches from Paris in Devil and Egg. Caroline took her five-year-old daughter with her, and did they eat well! Click here for part two. I love how many of the meals were simple, not terribly fancy, but still exquisite.

By the way, my sister just got back from Paris as well. It rained a lot while she was there, so she spent much of her time in museums. You people are giving me the travel bug.

Sunshine split pea soup

2009-05-19T13:30:00.003-04:00

The Food Coop had smoked ham hock, and when I see ham hock I have a Pavlovian response: split pea soup. Since it's spring, though, I tried to add a lighter touch to the stew. I used yellow split peas instead of the usual green, and cooked them with the ham, some chopped leek and carrot, and thyme. I wanted the brightness of citrus without the tartness so I added two halves of a lemon. That did the trick--springy stew.

Adriana's Day Off

2009-05-19T12:40:00.006-04:00

I took the day off for my birthday. It was going to be a museum day, but the weather was so beautiful I had a hard time staying indoors for very long!

First stop was the American Museum of Natural History. We're here all the time, but I always have to move at Jasper's pace and he never wants to go to the Asian hall. I'd gotten a late start and it was already lunch time, so I left the museum and picked up the delectable Shack-cago Dog (featuring Rick's Picks relish) and a Natural History "Crunch-stellation" concrete (vanilla custard, malt, Valrhona chocolate crunchies and chocolate toffee--mostly great, but toffee was too sweet). I found a lovely spot with 5,000,000 other people in Central Park and enjoyed a picnic.

I took my time strolling across the park to the east side and eventually landed at the Park Avenue Armory to see the Ernesto Neto installation, anthropodino.

There were tunnels, hanging sacks filled with spices....

A ball pit...

A rug that evolves into a creature...

and a big napping tent...

where I put up my feet awhile and relaxed in the giant purple cushion.

I eventually found my way out and then made a long-deferred pilgrimage to Minamoto Kitchoan, which sells Japanese desert cakes called wagashi. Most are created from rice flour or from red bean paste, which means they're not exactly delicious to the western palate... but they are very interesting. It's hard to explain why I would want to try food I know I won't enjoy exactly, but I was dying to try these. I liked the sakura (cherry) wagashi, a preserved yuzu lemon confection, and an almond wafer cake.

I slurped the gelatinous umeboshi plum wagashi with gold flecks while sitting on a bench at Madison Square Park.
Lane is much better than I am at remembering dates. But sometime in the spring of 2005 I wandered from my office to watch the children and their nannies play at Madison Square Park. I missed Jasper terribly and cried into the phone to Lane. "I want to quit! I hate being a working mom!" Lane, fresh from a successful solo show and a new commission for Starbucks, swinging Jasper in a swing at Prospect Park and bored out of his mind, said "so quit!" And the rest is history.

My Birthday Odessey actually took place the day before my birthday--I wanted to take advantage of less-crowded conditions on a weekday. My real birthday fell on Saturday, and I celebrated with Lane and Jasper by going out for dinner at Cheryl's Global Soul. We had knock-out jerk chicken wings, crazy-delicious blackened catfish, and rediculously tasty barbecue shrimp. It all went perfectly with the Ochoa Navarra Rosado Garancho. The kids' menu was actually not too condescending and we ordered Jasper some baguette pizza with fresh mozarella that came with freshly-made french fries and greens. I am proud to announce that Jasper ate all of his greens! Now that's a nice birthday present. We finished it all with bread pudding with vanlilla sauce, berries, and ice cream and a walk home.

Rhubarb and ramp braised ham steak with Campari sauce

2009-05-15T08:18:00.005-04:00

As I mentioned the other day, you need to help rhubarb out a little with either sugar or a rich meat, or maybe both. I recently tried Jessie Cool's lamb with rhubarb and strawberries and loved it; last night I borrowed some of those ideas for a ham steak.

First I browned the ham steak, then I added about 1 cup chicken stock, 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar, 1/3 cup brown sugar (yikes!), a little salt, minced rosemary, chopped rhubarb, and chopped ramp bulbs. Once it came to a simmer I placed the ramp greens over the top. After simmering covered for an hour this made for tasty ham, but the rhubarb turned almost gray. If I were to do this again I would add the rhubarb and ramp greens only during the last 20 minutes.

But here is the fun part! After I removed the ham and rhubarb I deglazed the pan with butter and then Campari, then added back all the cooking juices and reduced, reduced, reduced, until I ended up with a glossy, sweet-sour-barely-bitter sauce. Campari and rhubarb--a nifty combination. I must experiment more with those two.

Special Fashion Post: Barbie goes granola

2009-05-13T14:15:00.003-04:00

Back around the holidays we were opening presents with Jasper's friend, who received a few Barbie dolls. The astronaut suit one doll arrived in surely ranks as among the all-time great doll outfits, but the rest of the clothes were abysmal. It's not just that Barbie dresses like a slut. Barbie also seems to favor garish colors and synthetic colors. Why must she be so tacky? She used to be such a classy dame.

I vowed to give her a makeover. I'd copy Michelle Obama outfits! I'd create sports uniforms! I'd make a few suits! But as it turns out I'm not a genius clothing designer and I also don't have much spare time. Still, I did manage to knit Jasper's Ariel doll and another doll (who had been living with Wonder Woman inside a seat cushion for at least a year) a couple of sweaters with some leftover yarn.

I also stitched up a black jersey skirt...

... and a sundress that Jasper deemed "too sexy." (How would he know?) He wouldn't let me make them jeans, either, thus revealing his inner Mexican machismo.

We played with the dolls for about 15 minutes with the robots and the blocks. Then he set them down on a table, where they have lived ever since. Now I'm wondering if Wonder Woman will take formerly-naked Barbie back now that she's clothed, or if formerly-naked will hook up with Ariel? Of will either of them go with cyborg love and start dating the robots?

What we eat when we're busy

2009-05-13T13:59:00.007-04:00

Whenever we have friends over for dinner Lane gets to boasting--"We eat like this every night!" I always shake my head because no we do not. Especially lately. I went straight from the Brooklyn Food Conference into our school PTA plant sale with just a day's break between and am only now starting to recover. So, what do we eat when I'm too busy to cook... or even buy groceries?

I'm afraid we went through at least three boxes of Annie's Arthur pasta. I had cheese and crackers one night. Jasper may have eaten pizza twice.

Lane made this after cleaning out the refrigerator: egg salad sandwich (olive oil and capers, no mayo) and romaine salad topped with corn salsa and blood orange juice. Go Laney!

When we had our inaugural rooftop dinner we kept it simple--hot dogs and microgreens salad. (Yes, that's a Sn@pple bottle in my son's hand, and yes I'm ashamed.)

Lane made eggs Benedict with lox and tarragon for Mother's Day. Giving new meaning to the name "eggs BENEDICT" I spent the evening violently ill. But it was delicious going down.

Earlier this week I roasted leeks with rhubarb in olive oil. Don't do this. The leeks were delicious, but rhubarb (even the young, tender stalks) is too tart and needs something, either sugar or another fruit or some sort of heavy, very savory meat. Now you know. We had this with quinoa tossed with toasted pine nuts and diced dried apricots.

Find Joy

2009-05-06T09:56:00.002-04:00

Sheri and Shari have sent out a challenge: find joy in the month of May. May is usually a joyful month for me anyway--it's when the sun finally comes out (actually, this year we're still waiting...) and it's the month of my birthday and Mother's day. Queen for two days! Love May.

But wait, there are rules to this joy finding:

make a list of 3 attainable things that give you daily joy
(partners, spouses, kids too!)
open your calendar
find a place on your calendar to fit each joy
set your own joy pace, but we suggest once or twice a week, at least

Here is my joy list:

1. Spend my birthday at museums I can't visit when Jasper is with me.
2. Go to the Brooklyn Botanic Gardens alone.
3. Plant nasturtiums in my rooftop garden.

What's your joy list?

Mucho Mega Mayo Nachos

2009-05-05T20:06:00.004-04:00

Cinco de Mayo being an ersatz Mexican holiday, I prefer celebrating with ersatz Mexican food. Take, for example, nachos. This is probably only the second time I've made nachos. Maybe the third. I spread tortilla chips on a pan, poured a can of pinto beans over them, dusted with chili powder, and then dumped a few cups of grated cheddar cheese over everything and baked at 425 degrees for... a while. I didn't keep track, just kept checking for meltiness. Then I made guacamole (the labor-intensive kind, not the quickie kind) with roasted poblano and also roasted several wedges of out-of-season tomatoes Jasper dumped into my shopping cart as a joke. I say a joke because he's going through a tomato-refusal phase.

Lane made blood orange maragaritas. This offset the aggravation of listening to Jasper ask for "Aurthur pasta" while I was making the nachos. No, you may not have macaroni and cheese. Can't you see? I am I am preparing tortilla chips with melted cheese for your dinner.

Brooklyn Food Conference Afterglow

2009-05-03T16:54:00.007-04:00

I have a lot of catching up here, especially about the Brooklyn Food Conference--which was phenomenal! Near the beginning a band arrived. I don't know who they were, but they really set the tone.

I spent most of my time at the conference running around helping other volunteers, but I did get to see the opening speeches by Brooklyn Borough Prez Marty Markowitz, Dan Barber, Raj Patel, and LaDonna Redmond. All were great, but Patel is an especially witty and entertaining speaker. I also made it to a workshop on school lunch. And I did a brief turn through the exhibitions, filled with businesses and non-profits. Amazing--so many people involved in so many sustainable practicies!

I have to hand it to the conference organizers, the whole thing seemed to run incredibly smoothly. We had over 400 volunteers (I hear possibly up to 600). Not everything ran perfectly--I know there were people with dinner reservations whose names did not and up on the list, much to my dismay (this was partly my responsibility). But there were workshops aplenty, places for everyone to go, lights worked, outlets and even laptops found, information distributed, and so much inspiration ignighted.

In all, it looks like we had over 3,000 people in attendance.

Best part for me is when I finally took off my giant, yellow volunteer t-shirt, was handed a glass of wine by one of the conference organizers, and enjoyed a delicious dinner with my family, friends, and fabulous music.

I've spent today recovering in my pajamas, watching Marley and Me. Because I'm brain dead.

If you missed it and would like to find out what all the fuss was about, check out Paige Churchman's summary on the BFC blog.

We got a nice write-up from the New York Times Diner's Journal.

Read Miss Ginsu's post on the conference.

Read all the Tweets covering the conference. I loved being able to follow what was happening in other workshops. Too much? Maybe, but this is the future.

Thank you, Brooklynites, for supporting this conference! I think this is what it feels like to reach the tipping point of the good food movement.

Micro-posts on Facebook

2009-04-28T13:16:00.004-04:00

Over the weekend Lane was in Utah to attend the funeral of the great Ada Carpenter. Jasper and I stayed home, and between the BFC and playing single mom, I wasn't able to post on my blog like I'd planned. Instead, I did little micro-posts (is that what they're called?) via Facebook. If you're on Facebook, be sure to friend me there! I'm under my name, not WIMFD. If you're not, congratulations for resisting the great tractor beam. At any rate, here's what I was up to this weekend.

Just when I was about to bake some blueberry muffins I discovered I was out of butter. I remembered Emily's advice for making granola with cold-pressed coconut oil and thought, why not muffins? They turned out delicious.

I've posted before on the Danish open-faced rye bread sandwich, smorrebrod. (Also here.) Friday through Sunday I made one of these with smoked salmon, chive cream cheese, baby cress, and red onions for just about every single meal. And I loved it every damn time.

More on the Brooklyn Food Conference

2009-04-23T12:28:00.002-04:00

Did I mention I've been working for the Brooklyn Food Conference? Are you going? No pressure...

I should also mention that the conference has a blog with some really cool stories.

And we're having all these fun fundraisers.

Most conferences cost hundreds of dollars, but this one is free to the public. It still requires tens of thousands of dollars to put on a conference like this, though, even with an almost all-volunteer workforce. So we're trying to raise the money with the help of donors and fundraisers. If you happen to live in New York City, try and attend one of our events! Otherwise, think about donating via any of the Paypal buttons you'll find on our website.

The Brooklyn Food Conference

2009-04-21T10:43:00.002-04:00

I know, I know. I don't write. I don't blog.

It's been a struggle to keep up this blog because I've been incredibly busy working for the Brooklyn Food Conference. I'm the website and literature coordinator (two jobs which probably should have been handled by two different people), and it's been exciting, challenging, terrifying, exasperating, draining, thrilling. This is my first experience with real grass-roots volunteer work. In fact, this is a FREE conference run almost entirely by volunteers, which is insane. But somehow we're making it happen.

The conference will feature workshops for adults on everything from composting to starting your own food coop. There will be a panel of New York City chefs moderated by Leonard Lopate. Raj Patel and other food writers/activists will be speaking. There will be a Teen Iron Chef competition and a Kids Food Fair. It's just going to be amazing and I'm so excited!

This effort has been filling in every available smidgen of my available time, but I think it's all going to be worth it. Last week was especially crazy because Jasper was on spring break. We don't exactly have the funds to pay for childcare while I do my volunteer work (ahem) so I was trying to catch up every night after he went to bed. But it was also a fun week--we went to the movies, bought and planted seeds, went to the aquarium, the beach (chilly!), did the kiddie rides at Coney Island, and just hung out playing games and making Bob out of play dough.

At some point in the near future I probably should try and get a paid job. But in the meantime, I'm so glad I can steal a little time for a passion project and to play with my son.

Sprouting Seeds

2009-04-21T10:24:00.004-04:00

I don't know why I'm always so surprised when I plant seeds and they actually sprout into plants, but I'm so excited about our tiny crops. Last week Jasper and I planted some seeds indoors, and look what's already happening!

A few weeks ago I planted sweet pea seeds outdoors and they've just started popping out. I put in some poppy seeds next to them.

I've involved Jasper in my gardening projects as much as I can. It takes some patience to show kids how gentle they need to be, and I did scare Jasper off a little by panicking at his first efforts (freak-o mom...). But he recovered and is still interested in the lives of our plants. He keeps insisting that his Bionicles help me as well, so we use their creepy weapon-claw-things to do some of the digging. Talk about beating swords into plowshares.

My sage, thyme, and tarragon survived the winter and a flourishing this spring. Here we are planting a new rosemary plant. While we were there I crushed a few leaves of each herb for Jasper to smell. He liked all of the flavors, especially the rosemary. "Mom, you should cook something with that!" Oh happy words! I made him rosemary mashed potatoes that night. I freaking love this about growing your own herbs.

Innocent Creatures

2009-04-14T23:47:00.002-04:00

Jasper and I made ten of these on Sunday. They're based on a craft he found in his National Geographic Little Kids Magazine: you decorate one caterpillar head and the rest of the cups make up its segments. But Jasper decorated all the cups with faces and dubbed them "Innocent Creatures." And then, of course, he wanted to make them fight bad guys.

Pagan Passover

2009-04-14T23:36:00.004-04:00

For the past few years we have been fortunate enough to spend Passover with friends. But alas, these friends divorced last year, and the Art-world Ecumenical Seder Dinner Party is no longer. I was feeling a little bereft this year. All our other Jewish friends have family in or near the city. And so, even though I'm descended from Mexican Catholics, I planned our own Seder. I used a Haggadah written for kids and, since mid-week didn't work for us, we held it on Sunday.

I've been very busy lately and couldn't plan much ahead, but we all really liked it. I have to confess, I used Z Crackers instead of real matzoh. And we had Zinfandel instead of Manishevitz, but at least it was kosher! Jasper made us hide the afikomen for him to find over and over again.

You see, Lane and I are strangers in a strange land, having left the religion of our birth. We're not really looking for a replacement religion--but we do keep reaching for other narratives and rituals. I love the Passover Seder because it celebrates questioning and because its rituals revolve around food. So maybe we'll do this every year--celebrate spring with our own Pagan Passover.

Coconut-crusted tofu with umeboshi plum sauce and guanciale

2009-04-08T12:18:00.002-04:00

After surveying the various ingredients on hand in my kitchen I came up with this concoction, and it didn't even leave me wishing for meat or fish! I'm not sure I'll go out of my way to make it again, but it was pretty tasty (if very salty) and Lane liked it. Jasper not so much.

I had coconut left over from the bunny cake I made last weekend. When I think coconut, I find myself wanting something tart as a foil, and this lead me to the umeboshi paste. I also thought adding real meat of some sort would help, and picked the handy guanciale. You could use bacon or pancetta as a substitute.

First I cut the tofu into 1/2-inch slabs and marinated it in half mirin, half soy sauce for about an hour. Then I browned about 1/3 cup minced guanciale, draining most of the fat and reserving the meat. I drained the tofu, reserving the marinade, dusted each slice of tofu in rice flour, then pressed each piece into unsweetened coconut flakes. I cooked these on the guanciale pan just enough to toast the coconut on each side. Then I set the tofu aside.

To make the sauce I poured the marinade into the hot pan (after removing the tofu), whisked in about 2 tablespoons of umeboshi plum paste, and let boil, scraping up the bits. When I had a nice, thick syrup I strained it over the tofu. Then I topped with the browned guanciale.

We had this with carrots and soba noodles.

My tofu options

2009-04-07T17:25:00.003-04:00

Thanks to those of you who stepped up to my tofu challenge. Here's what people said, both on the blog and in Facebook:

Kate's search came up with this promising recipe from 101 Cookbooks.

Emily says "I'm not even convinced that it's THAT good for you. The jury is out on that one, as far as I'm concerned. The more tofu tastes, feels and smells like meat, the more friends it has. It undoubtedly has very low self-esteem . . ."

I have to agree with this, and with LizNoel's statement as well:

"As a vegetarian, I can't stand tofu. Soy can be made into too many products. That is very, very scary. Tofu is squishy & its consistency freaks me out."

Di suggested this crazy tofu schnitzel recipe made with panko. Why not?

Other suggestions all sound like they would elicit immediate rejection from my audience:

red miso soup with seaweed and firm tofu is good
deep fried tofu with bonito and seaweed (agedashi tofu)
I like to put tofu in homemade pad thai

I've used tofu in pad thai, and it just leaves us longing for shrimp.

KS tells me she has seitan recipes to share. Do tell!

Finally, Andrea says "I only like tofu in soups. It seems like a noodle, rather than trying to replace meat." Good point, though I think I'd prefer a real noodle to tofu.

I'm going to try and venture on my own recipe, a combination of a few of these. I've got red miso paste, soy sauce, sausage, carrots, ginger, mirin, and several spices...

(image via BitterSweet Blog)

Good dogs

2009-04-06T13:18:00.002-04:00

Long, skinny weenies with skin that snaps on fresh, sourdough heroes split in half, sharp mustard, relish, sauerkraut, and blue cheese. This is my favorite hot dog.

Candy yes

2009-04-06T13:03:00.004-04:00

Notwithstanding my militant stand against sugar in savory foods and candy in the classroom, I will still be filling little plastic eggs with candy for Jasper this Easter. Here's the loot I picked up at Blue Apron--a store that reminds me of Willy Wonka's candy store only it's even better because it also carries my favorite cheeses and duck liver pate.

It's still candy, but the Green Beans jelly beans are made with natural fruit juice concentrate, which makes for especially tasty beans. Jasper calls the rainbow-colored licorice whips "energy cords." I used a couple for a baking project and within minutes he and some friends finished off the rest of the bag. (So much for them!) The white bar with a flower is a crisp rice bar coated in white chocolate. And the gorgeous robins' eggs are chocolate caramel; these are my favorite. Jasper is also getting some marzipan fruit we saw at a different store and some non-edible Tintin comic books--all he wants me to read to him these days.

Meanwhile, Jasper's school teacher heard our pleas and is holding an Easter egg hunt with toy-filled eggs instead of candy-filled. I contributed some marbles, stickers, and Hello Kitty stamps. Other non-edible ideas are polished rocks, bouncy balls, egg-shaped sidewalk chalk, and mini markers.

Pistachios--whose food is this, anyway?

2009-04-02T11:46:00.003-04:00

Have you heard about the pistachio recall? I posted on it today on One Little Bite (also, see my fun depression-era veggie croquettes).

Since this is my personal blog, I'm going to get political here. Once again we face a massive food recall, and once again this points to the perils of having such giant, unregulated food system. Part of the problem with the pistachio recall is that the source, Setton Farms, sends it nuts far and wide to other manufacturers. But because the food industry continues to resist labeling it's harder to trace the path of contamination. Where did the nuts in your trail mix come from? Who knows!

Big Agribusiness has a strong lobbying presence in Washington, but there are still more of us than them. If we really care about our food safety we need to make our voices heard. Tell your representatives that you are in favor of more labeling, stronger safety guidelines, and smaller, more localized food production.

It's YOUR food.

Now at Whole Foods

2009-04-01T13:46:00.002-04:00

You really must check out Whole Foods' website today.

Adriana's House of Misery

2009-04-01T11:43:00.003-04:00

Seasonal Menu

Appetizer
Olbas Pastilles--horrid little herbal cough drops
Aperitif of Acai Berry Emergen-C

Main
Hot and Sour Soup--takeout, delivered by husband
16 Coldcalm Tablets--completely useless homeopathic medicine

Ask our sommelier to recommend a fine albuterol puffer to enjoy through the entire evening, every 10 minutes!

Bedtime Snack
More horrid little Olbas Pastilles
One dosage of antihistamine and one asthma pill--the last ones, freshly dug from the medicine box

Post-Midnight Snack
Half bottle of children's Chestal
More horrid little Olbas Pastilles

I Hate Tofu Challenge

2009-03-29T16:36:00.004-04:00

(Image via Button Arcade.)

I'm just going to come out and say it: I really don't like tofu. I keep trying, and I think it's all right in a stir fry. But my impression is that it's just a sad replacement for meat. I've yet to taste a dish that brings out whatever specialness tofu has to offer. What is the essence of tofu? Is it really just a gelatinous Zelig-like ingredient?

I've started my spring cleaning by purging our apartment of any junk we're not using; at the same time I've been working on a mental list of foods and dishes I'm going to stop buying and/or cooking just because they're "good for me" or for the sake of variety. It sounds like this runs counter to my all-embracing, love-all-vegetables kitchen ethics, but I'm really sick of storing unwanted leftovers in my refrigerator. Just as I try not to buy/wear clothes I don't absolutely love, I'm going to stop cooking dishes I don't absolutely love.

So. This brings us to tofu. This week my vegetarian nephew was visiting us and so I bought a slab of firm tofu thinking I would put it in something. He came and went and still the tofu haunts us.

My favorite tofu recipes have been grilled tofu marinated in soy sauce and mirin, crispy tofu with shitiakes and chorizo, and grilled tofu with red miso paste and toasted sesame seeds--all variations on the same general theme. Basically, tofu tastes best when its browned somehow on the outside, loaded with savory fermented bean flavor (soy sauce or miso), and soft but not slimy on the inside.

What else? Do any of you have a stand-out, fantastic, can't fail, make-me-faint recipe for tofu? Bring 'em on!

Crop to Cup Coffee

2009-03-29T14:55:00.004-04:00

There was a rep from Crop to Cup Coffee at the Food Coop the other day (lf course there was...) handing out delicious samples of their brew. I try to buy free-trade coffee as often as possible, so I like that Crop to Cup also engages in similar ethics. They buy directly from farmers and pay 20% premiums above market purchase price, share 5% of every coffee purchase, and 10% of company profits. You can read here for a description of the difference between C2C and Fair Trade, both of which are good ideas. I also love that you can go to the website and learn a little about the families who grow the coffee.

What's more, C2C is roasted here in Brooklyn. (I think they roast in Chicago as well.) So it's strong, fresh, and tasty. C2C ships everywhere, but if you live on the East Coast there are several locations where you can buy the coffee.

Caramelized root vegetables

2009-03-26T09:21:00.004-04:00

I stole this idea from Luisa: roasting root vegetables with leeks for a good, long time until everything caramelizes. She said it turned out so tasty her son was actually eating daikon radish, with relish! I had just about written off daikon radish as a vegetable I would just never like, but the long roasting made me reconsider. This really does transform the ugliest, crankiest vegetables of winter into something extraordinary. Luisa, feel free to chime in to tweak the below recipe.

Start by chopping our vegetables into bite-sized pieces, more or less. You'll want to chop the softer vegetables larger than the hard. Try: rutabagah, turnips, diakon radish, carrots, parsnips, celeriac.
Then add leeks: cut off the greens, split lengthwise to wash inside, and then chop crosswise. I also added a few roughly-chopped garlic cloves.
Toss everything in olive oil and sea salt, spread over a cookie sheet, and roast at 350 degrees for about 2 hours. You'll want to stir the veggies every 30 minutes.

Full disclosure, Jasper did not relish these veggies, alas. However, Lane and I thought it was a standout. In fact, Lane pointed out that what is most appealing about this dish is its umami--that fifth taste that helps you feel satisfied after eating something. Lane's theory is that we tend to overeat meat in search of this sensation.

I'm so glad Stella commented last week about the new studying showing that people who eat red meat every day die sooner. Along with sugar, Americans eat too much meat (especially red), and not only is it unhealthy, it's also envirnomentally unsustainable. But I think if we want to embrace a more plant-based, sustainable diet it's imperative that we find more ways to bring out the umami in vegetables.

Food Revolution in the News

2009-03-22T11:19:00.006-04:00

The New York Times has been all over food sustainability/justice issues this weekend:

A big article in the Business section, which is exciting--this indicates the food movement is gaining traction beyond foodie circles--Is a Food Revolution Now in Season.

In response to the new White House victory garden, the Times produced this editorial on the need to bring fresh produce to our urban deserts. What's an urban food desert? These are neighborhoods in cities where little to no fresh produce is sold--just fast food and processed snacks. It's hard enough for people to eat healthy, imagine how much more difficult if you have to leave your neighborhood to go grocery shopping! And no, not everyone can afford Fresh Direct.

Food and Water Watch is fighting against the use of hormones in milk-producing cows.
By the way, if you live in New York City, there is a similar local effort you can join: HealthySchoolNYC.org. I'm really excited about this movement. Even though we send Jasper to school with a packed luck, in Pre-K they serve kids a free breakfast in class--and it includes a serving of milk from rBGH-fed cows.

Here is an article on the comeback of sugar: Sugar is Back on Food Labels, This Time as a Selling Point. This is in response to the high fructose corn syrup backlash.

I'm glad we're backing off from dangerously over-processed sweeteners, but here's the real problem with HFCS, in my opinion: it has made it incredibly cheap and easy to sweeten processed food. And that's what's really behind our obesity and type II diabetes epidemic--TOO MUCH FUCKING SUGAR IN ALL OF OUR FOOD! Seriously, do we really need sugar in pasta sauce? What the hell is it doing in salad dressing and frozen entrees? We need to adjust our palates. This issue makes fire shoot out of my ears because it's literally killing people.

Also from the editorial pages, Food Glorious Food Myths.

Anyway, I don't think the Times is the Alpha and Omega of all things that matter, of course, but I am happy to see how seriously its taking the food movement.

Going granola

2009-03-20T21:32:00.007-04:00

You live in Park Slope long enough, sooner or later you will find yourself making your own granola. This recipe is based on one that some folks from Slow Food were handing out at the Making Brooklyn Bloom conference a couple of weeks ago. I'm so crushing out on Slow Food these days, by the way. Once upon a time I considered joining, except why pay $70 just to say you're a foodie when you could prove it by spending that money on a good meal? But then I found out Slow Food is also engaged in social justice and sustainability issues, especially with Josh Viertel at the helm, and that is what finally induced me to join. I think the Slow Food USA blog is very relevant and happening as well.

Anyway... back to granola. Here is my adaptation to the Slow Food recipe. I like it.

3 cups oats
1/2 cup sesame seeds
1 cup unsweetened coconut
1 cup chopped pecans
1/2 cup flax seeds
3/4 cup honey
1/4 cup canola oil
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1 cup dried blueberries

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix oats, seeds, coconuts, and nuts. Then pour in honey and oil, mixing thoroughly with a fork. Press into a cookie sheet and bake for about 30 minutes or until dark golden brown. About halfway through baking, turn edges into center to avoid burning.

When done, remove from oven and let cool completely before adding blueberries.

One Little Bite!

2009-03-20T12:53:00.003-04:00

Cookie Magazine has a new food blog, One Little Bite, and guess who is blogging for them? That's right, me--as well as much of the Cookie staff, who are all enthusiastic foodies. I hear they are recruiting some additional contributors as well. Kid-friendly recipes abound, but there are also reviews, ideas, recommendations, and inspiration.

Cookie wanted to build up posts before going public, so check out the archives!

(The above Cookie cookie is from a different event, but I've been waiting for an excuse to publish it.)

Victory Garden At Last!

2009-03-19T22:57:00.002-04:00

After months of badgering from people like me the Obamas have announced that they are planting a victory vegetable garden at the White House! Yay! Naturally Obama Foodorama got the scoop earlier, but today it became official. Maybe they were waiting until March 21 to announce, but all that digging was getting harder to hide.

It seems like there's a lot of buzz about vegetable gardens this year, what with the economic implosion and the growing support for local, organic foods. After years of growing only flowers and herbs on our rooftop I am actually considering growing lettuce and strawberries up there as well this year.

What chocolate cake needs

2009-03-16T13:21:00.002-04:00

One food trend I can't get enough of is the salted chocolate, especially with caramel. I'm thinking Fran's Salted Caramels, Baked Sweet-and-Salty brownies.

I made my favorite almost-flourless chocolate cake recipe this weekend and after years of loving this cake for years it suddenly seemed devoid of something...salt! I first tried a slice sprinkled with sea salt and that was definitely an improvement. But clearly the cake needed a luscious layer of caramel as well.

This gave me the opportunity to try something I've been thinking of doing for a while--make my own dulce de leche. All you have to do is plunk an opened can of sweetened condensed milk in a pot of water and stir for a few hours! Needless to say I did not have the patience to stir the entire time and mine turned out lumpy. Still, with the addition of salt and a few teaspoons of butter I got exactly what I was looking for.

If you don't feel like making your own dulce de leche (and who can blame you?) try the store-bought version with some salt sprinkled atop.

Zuzuramen

2009-03-16T13:04:00.003-04:00

Do I have any Brooklyn readers?

Zuzuramen opened just this week in Park Slope and I stopped in for take-out Saturday. It is more Momofuku than ramen-dive-around-the-corner, which means it's on the expensive side. Still, I was pleased with what I ordered.

We were fighting off colds this weekend, so I got the spicy green curry miso ramen, which comes with bok choy, mushrooms, and charshu (a kind of roasted pork). I especially liked the copious amounts of fresh Thai basil leaves. I also brought home some vegetable dumplings with shiso seed dipping sauce for Jasper, which he swiftly rejected since they did not resemble the dumplings he had requested--"the ones I ate last time I played Backyardigan games" not being the most helpful description. This was fortuitous as I could enjoy the dumplings for myself. Wrapping is thin but strong enough not to fall apart, just right.

They're not yet open for lunch, unfortunately. But they will start delivery in a couple of weeks. Small dining room woody and sweet, with a glassed-in kitchen.

173 4th Avenue on Sterling
718.398.ZUZU

Yes We Can Part II

2009-03-12T22:45:00.002-04:00

This post on Obama Foodorama made me just so dang happy. Not the bit about what a mess Obama inherited, but the news that Mr. Wrong Osterholm will not be in charge of the FDA's Food and Safety Inspection Service. Rumor that he was being considered spread like wildfire through the Internets last week and there was an overwhelming NO! I love you, tech-savvy grassroots!

I'm not eating your gray soup

2009-03-11T10:52:00.003-04:00

I made a potato soup using purple potatoes and it came out gray. This photo really don't do it justice--it's gray. Jasper cried so much I broke my dinner rule and let him have yogurt and a banana for dinner.

Luxury in the time of cholera

2009-03-05T13:35:00.003-05:00

Some of you already know about that newsletter written by a celebrity--it starts with the letter "g" and features everything from recipes to parenting advice from her personal gurus? You know what I'm talking about. It's the newsletter people love to hate, mostly because it comes from a celebrity people love to hate. She has garnered a backlash for appearing oblivious to our current economic crisis--and to the lives of regular folks in general--even while she courts our attention.

Last week's newsletter was a travel guide to Paris that included recommendations for expensive restaurants and hotels. It began with a sweet personal story, yet to me it still came off as a bit Lovey Howell. Oh my, yes! There really isn't anything like Paris in a recession, darling, especially with such a weak dollar. Some friends of ours (artists who don't have health insurance...) spent their New Year's in Paris and the one thing they kept saying over and over again was how expensive everything was.

So fine, you're reading a fun little newsletter about making your life beautiful and honoring the inner aspect. It's not The Economist. What do you say about Paris that wouldn't be completely gross? Where could she direct my economically-challenged, hopeless romantic friends?

Maybe the intangibles, like her favorite views in Paris--the Seine from a bridge at midnight, a corner across the street from Gare du Nord, Oscar Wilde's grave--and what they mean.

This has got me thinking about how we write about and discuss luxury in times like these. As a food writer who focuses on home cooking I do try to balance pricier epicurean pleasures with budget-conscious frugality--though I still probably spend more on ingredients than other people might because I'm obsessed. Your Wii is my Flying Pigs bacon--and most of us do have to chose between the two.

But back to the general idea of luxury, what does that mean now, right now at this minute, when many of us have lost much and aren't sure how much more we will lose? What are the intangible luxuries that I enjoy now? Time, my education, options, flexibility, friends, family, good health, inspiration, memory, taste, and an abundance of love...

Something I'm thinking about.

By the way, interesting comments on the notorious newsletter at Foodinista.

March

2009-03-03T11:01:00.002-05:00

We emerged from Jasper's sickness in time to celebrate little girl's blessing on Sunday as our friends opened their doors to celebrate the arrival of Uma. One small guest presented Uma with the gift of a perfect, egg-shaped magnetite rock, and we passed this around as we took turns expressing our best wishes and reading poems. I blubbered on and on about the christening of the Ekdahl daughters scene near the end of Fanny and Alexander--what can I say, newborn babies make me so sentimental. But what I loved most of all was the mother's poem for her daughter. Read Luisa's poem here--it's unbelievably gorgeous.

Lane and I are finished making babies. We love the shape of our three-person family. But I also love it when other people have babies and I loved seeing so many babies (three newborns) at this celebration--and the toddlers, and the five-year-olds running around playing detective. Lane and I found ourselves sitting on a sofa at one point. I was holding Uma (lucky me!) and another little girl climbed up between us. We were so grateful to have been given entre to this world, the world of parenthood. The blessing coming up so soon after Jasper's sad day of illness heightened the preciousness of it all--the danger, the risks, the pain, the bliss, the joy, the hilarity.

Shortly after this golden moment the detectives found me and slayed me with their swords.

Anyway, I'm mulling over the idea of renewal as winter winds down and spring hides around the corner. It feels very far away right now--yesterday's snowstorm was so severe the New York City public schools held the first snow day in five years and this week we will have freezing temperatures. Perhaps we will see spring in the last week of May. In the meantime, the doldrums--winter drags on and it gets harder to keep going, to build momentum. This is when you dig in, when you make chicken pot pie and start looking at seeds. When you force yourself to exercise and finally call that friend. March is a reprieve, a time to prepare for spring.

Half the job is just showing up

2009-02-28T10:15:00.009-05:00

So yesterday I had a really fun conference call. One participant had just arrived from a stressful, disastrous meeting with a client. Another participant had just had an eye exam and was still somewhat disoriented with blurred vision. I was calling from home, where I was taking care of my poor, sick son. Everyone else was in an office in Manhattan talking on speakerphone, which was very difficult to hear. And every few minutes I had to put the phone down in order to hold a bowl with one hand and Jasper's hair back with the other while he vomited.

I would love to personally strangle the person who coined this word, "multi-tasking." There is no multi-tasking. There is just some frazzled mom stepping in and out of worlds, focusing one moment on a sick child and the next moment on a the visual identity for a conference, worrying that she's not giving sufficient attention to either.

In the meantime, Lane arrived with the Pedialyte pops I had asked him to buy. Jasper is an unnaturally healthy child who never gets sick, has never had a fever above 100 degrees, so I am never prepared for illness. I'm just lucky Lane works a bike ride away and has the flexibility to make a shopping trip for me.

I fed Jasper the Pedialyte and he continued to vomit. I was in a panic by the end of the day because Jasper couldn't keep anything down and I was worried that he was getting dangerously dehydrated. I had put in a call to his pediatrician hours ago; she finally called me back by the end of the day and told me to give him only tiny amounts of fluids every 10 minutes. Apparently larger amounts stretch the stomach, and that's what triggers vomiting.

Why didn't I know this already? I could have saved him from a lot of vomiting hours ago. And if I'd had the good sense to call my mother instead of the pediatrician (I was thinking like a New Yorker, I guess) she probably would have told me the same thing.

Anyway, it was one of those days when I felt like an impostor--with the conference call, as Jasper's mother. I don't know what the hell I'm doing, but somehow I keep hoping that if I show up I'll get enough of this right and we'll all survive somehow. Is that enough? If I try to be as engaged and in-the-moment as possible, will it all be okay? I hope so.

Turkish delight in Queens

2009-02-27T11:09:00.003-05:00

Lane was in Queens yesterday when he stumbled upon Baruir, a charming Armenian shop. They roast their own coffee right there and also sell Middle Eastern foods. Lane bought us some of the fun treats they sell, mushroom pate, a creamy caviar paste, soujuk (a fermented dried beef sausage), and pillowy Turkish delight in flavors like rosewater. Their coffee is good and strong. Baruir has been open since the mid-60s.

Two stops into Queens on the 7 train.
40-07 Queens Boulevard
718.784.0842

Brooklyn's New Culinary Movement is Kinda Narrow

2009-02-25T22:16:00.002-05:00

People keep posting on this great article in the New York Times about the food artisans of Brooklyn. Mast chocolate? Let me tell you, it's the first American chocolate I've tried that actually rivals Swiss chocolate (the good stuff that they don't export). I can't bring myself to eat any other chocolate now. Salvatore Bklyn ricotta? Divine. I hear angels singing when I eat it. Six Point Ale--wonderful. Gorilla Coffee--can't live without it.

But I have to admit, I have mixed feelings about this story. All of this action is happening in the gentrified parts of Brooklyn, all the artisans are white, and most of them are male. I read this and kind of thought, gee, look what all those Bard graduates are up to.

Don't get me wrong--I am grateful and appreciative of what they do. I know full well that none of this is possible without gentrification. They're still at it, recession notwithstanding--and I keep buying it, recession notwithstanding. Part of the story is about a community, a network of like-minded folk working towards similar goals.

So then where are the Red Hook pupusa vendors? If they're cool enough to hang out with the kids at the Brooklyn Flea, why aren't they mentioned in this article? How about the rest of Brooklyn--anything else going on? Because somehow I suspect this isn't the whole story.

Literary Comfort Food

2009-02-25T09:58:00.003-05:00

Today the radio show The Takeaway is asking listeners to name their recommendations for an economic hard times reading list. A few callers have brought up their idea of "comfort food" reading, like A Tree Grows in Brooklyn and Huck Finn.

That got me thinking about what makes for "comfort food" reading--clearly something simple and easy, like mashed potatoes and chicken stew, yet also somewhat edifying, unlike junk food (pulp fiction). Also, comfort food reading is fun, not preachy or ascetic (unsalted vegan macrobiotic). Here's my list:

Happy All the Time by Laurie Colwin
Sure it's about a bunch of rich New Yorkers, but it's so light and sweet and earnest--a book about people falling in love and learning to weave their different lives together.

Love Walked In Marisa de los Santos
Transport Happy All the Time to Baltimore and substitute the Jewish characters with Filipino... No really, this novel is lovely and I've been meaning to read the sequel, Belong to Me.

On Beauty and White Teeth by Zadie Smith
True, Smith does tackle some difficult issues, but she does so in such an entertaining way--her characters are so much damn fun.

Cat's Eye, The Edible Woman, and Robber Bride by Margaret Atwood
I think we all know Atwood can get a little didactic at times, but I love these three for her delicious story-telling and characterization.

Golden Country by Jennifer Gilmore
Another helping of scrumptious story telling. Word is she's working on her next novel and I can't wait to read it.

So what's your literary equivalent of comfort food? Readers who list Holy Scriptures will have rotten tomatoes thrown at them, by the way. Ditto for Harry Potter. You love the Harry Potter I GET IT! Do you remember reading anything else? Tell me your meatloaf.

*After publishing this it occurred to me that some of these writers might object to the idea of equating their work with comfort food. I mean it in the best way, though! By comfort food I do not mean bland, pedestrian, or merely OK.

Out to lunch

2009-02-20T00:20:00.002-05:00

Last week was incredibly busy and this week Jasper was off from school. This came as a complete surprise to me, by the way, and I had not made any childcare plans. So I'm behind on everything. Why do NYC kids get two winter breaks? One friend of mine suggests its because flu season is at its height this time of year. At any rate, I'll be posting more next week.

Meanwhile, this news via Fooducate is making me feel a little less sheepish about my not-so-red velvet cupcakes.

Where the magic happens

2009-02-17T12:21:00.002-05:00

Ever wonder what my kitchen looks like? Today I'm a guest at the Food & Party blog on Cafe Mom! Come by, get a tour of my leeeeeetle kitchen, and say hello.

My little poussin

2009-02-16T23:46:00.003-05:00

Lane and I had our Valentine's date on Wednesday--we went to our friends' annual party. But I still wanted to make something a little special for the day. I made a sweet potato and leek soup (use any potato and leek recipe just substituting sweet potatoes) with lots of white pepper and I roasted three little poussin (also known as Cornish hen) for each of us.

I wish I could have made Megan's blood orange sorbet with candied fennel and kumquat, but we made do with Lane's blood orange gin & tonics using the new glasses I gave him. Hope your Valentine's was sweet.

No Sweetiepie for you

2009-02-16T23:30:00.003-05:00

School is out for the week. This took me by surprise so now I am casting about for activities. I was excited to take Jasper and meet Lane this afternoon for a decadent ice cream treat at Sweetiepie, an old-fashioned style (but new) parlor/restaurant, but it was closed. I then thought of the Greenwich Ave. tea shop I've wanted to visit since I first moved here, Tea and Sympathy.

Do you forget unpleasant memories and repeat the same mistakes over and over again? Every few years I decide to try to visit Tea and Sympathy, and every time it's there's a long wait and someone trying to get in is rude to me. And then I stare into the windows at that tiny, crowded room with the stupid ye-olde china and I wonder how it could possibly be worth all the abuse.

So picture me standing in front of the door, having just been told by a type-A asshole that as a matter of fact, he had been waiting much longer than I had and was definitely next. I turn to see Lane, grimmacing at the granny trappings and hating it all. He steers us a few doors over to A Salt and Battery for fish and chips--and fried Mars bars. Much more his and Jasper's kind of place. And then he reminds me how lucky we are to live in a city where we can say "screw you, we're going to the other English-cusine establishment on the block." Even if that other English establishment is also owned by the Tea and Sympathy folks.

I still want to go to Sweetiepie, even though I'm sure I'll suffer some abuse there as well.

What makes a BLT better?

2009-02-16T23:23:00.001-05:00

Canadian bacon and homemade mayonnaise using lemon juice and olive oil.

So that's guava

2009-02-16T23:21:00.003-05:00

This one wasn't quite ripe, and did not have that characteristic fuchsia flesh. Not all of them do. It was a little bitter. I'm saving the other--maybe I'll crush it and add it to some yogurt.

Quick! Get some osso buco!

2009-02-14T14:03:00.003-05:00

If you're still looking for an at-home Valentine's dinner might I suggest osso buco? We had some last night. It's veal shank, though since I bought ours at the Food Coop it probably wasn't traditional veal. Anyway, it's very easy to prepare. This is based on the recipe in the Silver Spoon.

1. Cook some choppped onion in butter for about five minutes. Push to the side of the pan.
2. Dust osso buco in flour and then brown on each side over high heat.
3. Add salt and pepper to taste, then pour about 1/4 cup dry wine--or rose, if you're feeling romantic.
4. Let wine evaporate and add chopped carrots, celery, and bout 1/2 cup or more chicken or beef stock.
5. Simmer on low for about 30 minutes.
6. Prepare gremola--minced lemon zest with a few tablespoons minced parsley.
7. When beef is cooked, add the gremola and cook a few minutes more.

Some people like theirs with a little tomato paste mixed with water--you can add that in at step 4.

We had this last night along with these scrumptous creamy braised brussels sprouts from Cafe Fernando.

Lane and I had our Valentine's date Wednesday night and today, after a busy week, I find myself at a loss for tonight's dinner. I have vague plans for a leek and sweet potato soup.

Plant-derived food coloring, I've had it with you

2009-02-11T12:55:00.004-05:00

These were supposed to be red velvet cupcakes. But thanks to my paranoid artificial food dye aversion I keep using that useless plant-derived food coloring. And now look! I used about 3/4 of the bottle and the cupcakes aren't even remotely red! I could have used a lot more cocoa and make more chocolatey cupcakes.

When oh when will I learn. Sometimes you've just got to compromise and go with the toxic stuff.

French fries

2009-02-10T09:49:00.003-05:00

This weekend I made my own baked french fries. (I'm too big a coward to deep fry anything--see what could happen?!?) Using the advice of Russ Parsons in How to Read a French Fry, I poached the chopped potatoes for about three minutes first. Then I dried the potatoes well and tossed them in plenty of olive oil. (You could use peanut or other oil.) I spread them out, salted and peppered, and roasted at 400 degrees for about 20 minutes until they just started to brown.

I suppose I should have stirred or turned them half-way through, but I didn't and they were slightly more toasted on the bottom--but not fatal. Still, I was happy with the results--crisp on the outside and fluffy on this inside. If you try this it is imperative that you use russet potatoes. It has something to do with the way the starches break down, but Yukon gold or red potatoes will not work as well.

Cardamom eggplant

2009-02-09T21:43:00.002-05:00

What did I cook last week? I can barely remember. Last week was a crazed blur and this week is going to be even crazier. I had to upload my last few photos to remember. Here we see my papadums--not from scratch, but I did fry them myself and they puffed up into these fun treats. Great with papaya chutney.

But the culinary highlight of the week (so far as I remember) was eggplant with cardamom in tomato sauce. I have decided that eggplant and cardamom make a great combination. I cracked about 20 cardamom pods and some coriander seeds into a pan of hot oil, smoked the seeds a while, then added one large, peeled, chopped eggplant and a little can of tomato paste (and salt to taste). When it was nearly done I also added some lemon juice. Surprisingly good, though not particularly photogenic.

Not delicious: torched blood oranges

2009-02-02T10:41:00.005-05:00

Some friends of ours were telling us about the roasted caramelized grapefruit dessert they had at Aquagrill. It sounded tasty and I started wondering if I could try the same thing with the blood oranges now in season and using my blowtorch. The only time I ever use that thing is to make creme brulee, and with a kitchen my size I like all my gadgets to be multipurpose.

I sliced the wedges and sprinkled the cut sides with sugar and then torched until the sugar caramelized. Alas, the oranges took on the propane taste--something that never happens with creme brulee. I suppose the oranges are too delicate for the blowtorch?

Oh well, the Ciao Bella blood orange sorbetto was still delicious.

I'll have to try this again, this time with the broiler. To be continued.

The most colorful meal I'll have all winter

2009-01-30T13:08:00.003-05:00

I bought some of this purple cauliflower and was going to make a Silver Spoon dish: bake the cauliflower mixed with chopped hard boiled eggs with tons of butter and bread crumbs. But then I wanted to add delicata squash. And then I saw this post on paprika. Somehow I ended up with this casserole instead.

Rainbow Cauliflower Casserole

1 purple cauliflower, chopped
2 delicata squash, diced
4 hard boiled eggs
olive oil
thyme
salt and pepper
1 large Meyer lemon in wedges
paprika
bread crumbs

Poach the cauliflower and combine with the squash in a buttered dish. Chop the egg whites, mash the yolks, and mix both into the vegetables. Drizzle in some olive oil. How much? As much as you want. Add thyme leaves, salt. and pepper to taste and cram in the lemon wedges here and there. Top with copious amounts of paprika and a few tablespoons of bread crumbs.

Roast covered at 375 degrees for about 30 minutes. Remove lid and continue roasting for another 10 minutes.

Meyer lemon skins are so soft you could probably eat them, but I smash them into my serving and then discard the skins.

Don't call it cassoulet

2009-01-30T12:58:00.003-05:00

I keep wanting to make cassoulet--there are hundreds of "quick and easy" versions online. Yet I always balk at all the meat. Most recipes call for at least three different kinds: duck, sausage, and pork. Three different kinds of meat? Who the hell does cassoulet think it is?

So this is not cassoulet. It's just inspired by it. I love a stew that brews for at least two hours. And I love cheating with these duck confit legs (sold for about $7 each at the Food Coop).

Duck Stew

1 chopped carrot
1 chopped onion
several whole garlic cloves
2 duck confit legs
2 cans cannelloni beans
1 can crushed tomatoes
1/4 cup apple cider
1 bundle of fresh parsley and thyme
salt and pepper to taste
grated Parmesan and parsley for garnish

In a large, cast iron pot soften the carrot, onion, and cloves (oh fine, add celery if you like that, too). Move to one side of the pot and add legs, skin side down. Brown on each side. Add the rest of the ingredients, bring to a simmer, and cook, partially covered, at least two hours.

Remove and discard herbs. Remove legs, shred meat, and return meat to the pot. Serve with Parmesan and parsley.

One more reason to worry: high frutcose syrup may contain mercury

2009-01-27T14:43:00.002-05:00

Actually, this is one more reason to avoid buying processed food and to read labels. Apparently mercury has been found in foods made with HFCS.

Read all about it in Fooducate and The Ethicurean--thanks to Mom 101 for that 2nd reference.

OK, so I am late for picking up my son yet again--does rarely buying anything made with HFCS somehow balance that out?

How do you make your chili?

2009-01-27T14:23:00.005-05:00

I start by toasting some spices: chili powder, cumin, and coriander (wish I'd had whole)

Then I brown some ground beef and some onions--red in this case, which was a limited-supply compromise. By the way, grass-fed beef is so lean there's hardly any oil to drain. I'm just saying. If you're feeling especially virtuous you can skip the beef altogether.

Add some dark stout, maybe a quarter cup or so.

Then add beans, canned tomatoes, molasses, salt and pepper. I wish we'd had corn or other veggies to add as well as scallions and cilantro for garnish, but it was still good, especially with cornbread, especially the next day.

I was reading this recipe for spicy braised brisket from Brooklyn Farmhouse and thought it would also make a great base for chili. What goes into your chili?

Apple pork pie--just the filling

2009-01-27T14:15:00.004-05:00

A few weeks ago I bought the ingredients to make apple pork pie with caramelized onions...but I never found the time to make the crust. Instead, I made the filling, more or less,

caramelized some onions,

and had it with red onion & rosemary Z Crackers. Close enough for me!

Final Obamalot dispatch

2009-01-24T13:49:00.003-05:00

Early Tuesday morning our hosts got together with some neighbors and walked to the mall, eventually finding a good spot near the WWII monument. They said it was crazy, but very civilized, and they had excellent views of the JumboTron screens. Only a few people boo-ed when Bush was mentioned, and one woman said, "Have some respect! His parents are up there!" Just after Obama was sworn in everyone went berzerk with joy. No one was arrested.

We enjoyed watching the proceedings from our friends' cozy den, buried under blankets on a chilly morning, breathing the same DC air as the new president.

Our friends left early, during the poem, and met us at Bistrot du Coin where we celebrated with cocktails, frites, mussels, decadent creamed spinach, garlicky haricot vert, ravioles du royan and other treats. I had a duck salad as a nod to the Inaugural luncheon. Two hours later revelers were still streaming down the street!

Our friend, Stella, was one of many ticket holders who could not get into the Mall at all, but she also enjoyed watching the inauguration from a warmer location.

Hand, I'll never take you for granted

2009-01-22T11:09:00.002-05:00

Oh, the Inauguration! Wasn't it exciting!

So my grand blogging plans (OK, my moderate blogging plans) were derailed Monday afternoon due to an accident. We were driving alongside Constitution Ave., stuck in traffic forever (see photos in the previous post), and I decided to just get out and walk to the Natural History Museum. The traffic happened to get moving again just then and a passing bus smashed my hand against the open door frame. According to Lane it was the vents on the bus that got me. Anyway, no broken bones, just abrasions and contusions.

I spent the next four hours at the George Washington University Hospital, but I have to say they were all just lovely, including Dr. "This Sucks, doesn't it!" and kept me moving from station to station (triage, registration, radiation, er) with very little waiting. And it could have been much, much worse. I feel like I got off easy for such profound stupidity on my part.

Anyway, I'll post more soon. We just got back yesterday and I'm still buried underneath a big mess and several urgent tasks. Also, I finally got the plaster splint off my right hand and this is the first time I've been able to peck out more than a few words on the laptop.

Hope you all enjoyed your weekend!

Obamalot dispatch #3

2009-01-20T08:09:00.006-05:00

Driving down Constitution Avenue & walking through Adams Morgan I shot some photos of the festivities. I also injured my right hand. So I can't type very much.

Obamalot dispatch #2

2009-01-19T10:12:00.006-05:00

Lane rode his bike to the Mall yesterday to attend the We Are One concert.* I got the occasional text message from him, beginning with a rather disappointing "this is kinda dumb" and "the best part was the ride over," but that was before the concert even got started. From his report, there were a lot of people there, but not a dangerous number and pretty much all well-behaved, upstanding citizens. (Yes, for Lane that's always a bit of a disappointment.) But once the music started he had a great time. The high point for him was Stevie Wonder singing "Higher Ground," and he thought that should have been the closing number instead of U2 singing "Pride in the Name of Love." Obama spoke at the concert as well, which was thrilling. Lane's really glad he went. I'm a little envious.

Meanwhile, I left Jasper at home with our football-watching friend (the playoffs) and took a walk with our chocolate-loving friend to 18th Street. We went to the Biagio Fine Chocolate shop. They have a great selection, including Vosges, Mirabelle hot chocolate, several European lines, and locally-made confections. We picked some tempting pieces from the counter, including these two Inaugural-themed bon bons. Finally, chocolate you can believe in!

Also at Biagio there was a show of Obama campaign photos by Scout Tufankjian.

Our hosts held a dinner party and someone brought this cake from Firehook.

*Does anyone else think of LMGs when they hear "We Are One"? Anyone? Just me?

Obamalot dispatch #1

2009-01-18T09:52:00.005-05:00

It's Sunday and we've barely left the house, so I haven't any great stories of running into the Obamas at Ben's Chili Bowl. We were going to go to the Museum of Natural History but decided instead to slide into a delicious Day of Sloth. In the evening we attended a couple of gallery openings. So far Washington is strangely quiet. Hardly anyone was about in Adams Morgan last night. Is everyone saving themselves for Tuesday? We hear all the parties are happening at the hotels.

Anyway, last night I made this apple and fennel dish: three chopped apples, one sliced fennel bulb, about 1 cup chopped radicchio, drizzled with olive oil and topped with pine nuts. I roasted at 375 degrees for about 15 minutes, until the pine nuts were toasted but before the apples became mushy. This would also be good with walnuts.

Our friend has a great way to cook fish: place a fillet over a little bit of water and olive oil in foil, add lemon juice and lemon zest, pour plain yogurt over the fish, season with salt, pepper, and maybe a few herbs, and then roast in oven for just a few minutes (5-10, depending on the size). Remove from the oven and let sit covered for another 5-10 minutes. We had cod, but you could do this with other types of fish.

Lane is getting ready to see the big concert on the Mall today. I just hope he doesn't do anything to get arrested. Later on there will be a dinner party including two other little boys.

This has even less to do with Obama, but I'm loving the colors and patterns I see around our friends' house.

On the road to Obamalot

2009-01-16T10:53:00.002-05:00

We are driving today to DC for the inauguration! No, we don't have tickets to the event itself. We have friends who invited us to stay with them and celebrate, though. Some of our party will try to attend the free concert on Sunday and watch the proceedings on the Mall Jumbotrons. I suspect I will be home with the boy watching everything on the tee vee.

I'll be posting from DC if I can. Happy MLK weekend!

(image via CapCity)

Onion goggles

2009-01-15T11:39:00.002-05:00

I don't know about you, but I have been wearing ski goggles to slice onions for years. It elicits peals of laughter from my friends, but I don't care. I will do anything to survive my encounters with alliums.

I've tried keeping onions in the refrigerator, sharpening my knife before cutting, burning a candle--all to no avail. Nothing works like the goggles.

Well weep no more my friends, nor store your ski equipment in the kitchen, for the venerable King Arthur Flour is here to the rescue! They make onion-slicing goggles. Thanks, Misha, for the tip!

You'll find me dining with Gyweneth here

2009-01-15T10:08:00.003-05:00

I was at an event yesterday when Gwyneth's newsletter, Goop, came up. Turns out a lot of people are reading it, and love it or hate it we just can't look away. Even as I write this I am somewhat ashamed that I'm even posting about it (again!) and yet here I go.

So today's newsletter features some of Gwyneth's favorite places to eat in New York, and I was delighted to find the name of a Korean vegetarian restaurant I've been trying to remember for, seriously, years. I went there with colleagues once and absolutely loved it. In fact, it's what I have in mind every time I'm in the mood for Buddhist temple food.

And so, I give you my annotated list of Goop-endorsed restaurants:

Balthazar
80 Spring Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 965-1785
www.balthazarny.com
Yeah, it's OK--if you have 2 hours to kill waiting in line for brunch. Skip the dining room and get their fantastic pastries at the little takeout counter.

Gramercy Tavern
42 East 20th Street
New York, NY 10003
(212) 477-0777
www.gramercytavern.com
Oh my, yeeeeessssss. Special occasions for we mere mortals.

HanGawi
12 East 32nd Street
New York, NY 10016
(212) 213-0077
www.hangawirestaurant.com

The Korean vegetarian restaurant I mentioned. So peaceful, too.

Kelly and Ping SoHo
127 Greene Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 228-1212
eatrice.com/kellyPing.html

Usually packed, so try the off hours. It's fine if you're already in SoHo, but I wouldn't consider it a destination in itself.

Lupa
170 Thompson Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 982-5089
www.luparestaurant.com

Keep in mind, Gwyneth is buddies with Mario Batali and I think she managed to slip in all of his restaurants. I like Lupa, too, and from what I hear his restaurants are all pretty good. But do see Yvo's review of Lupa. (For that matter, she may have reviews of the others on this list; if so, worth seeking her opinion.)

Sushi Yasuda
204 East 43rd Street
New York, NY 10017
(212) 972-1001
www.sushiyasuda.com

Oh yes. The sushi here is so fresh I even ate here while pregnant.

I've had Cookshop on my list of places to try for the longest time.

As for hotels--well, most of the people I know cannot spend $500-1000 a night to stay here. So via Sylvia who stayed there recently, here's my hotel recommendation for the rest of us.

The Pod Hotel

230 E 51st St. NYC, NY 10022

By the way, go here to read about LA Times reporter Mary Melton's attempt to follow Gwyneth's detox diet. Hilarious.

Chuck goes Japanese

2009-01-15T09:58:00.002-05:00

I riffed on this Japanese beef stew recipe to make a pot roast yesterday. After browning a chuck roast I put it in ye olde crock pot along with 1/4 cup soy sauce, ginger slices, lemon peel, and half a red onion. After several hours I added diced delicata squash and sliced diakon radish.

It looked like I had enough liquid for stew, so when it was done I cut the roast into chunks. But...as it turns out I did not have quite enough liquid for stew after all. Oh well.

Are there foods you keep buying, either because they're good for you or because you think they just belong, but that you don't like? I keep buying daikon radish for Japanese dishes. But I don't really like it. Pallid root devoid of personality....

Yesterday was the day I finally woke up and said to myself, if you don't like diakon radish stop buying it. Sad that I need to give myself permission to stop buying food I don't like.

Ricotta mac'n cheese

2009-01-14T10:25:00.003-05:00

Another child of leftovers--I bought ricotta and swiss chard so I could make more of that malfatti, but it was just. not. going to happen. Instead I poached the chard and drizzled from Japanese dressing from last night and made this concoction: tiny rigatoni with 15 oz. ricotta, tons of sharp, white cheddar, 1/2 cup cream, and thyme. Topped with bacon and parmesean and baked until toasty.

It wasn't quite the usual mac'n cheese, but we loved it. Now to put in a chuck roast for the day.

Apple pork pie with caramelized onions

2009-01-13T11:52:00.001-05:00

This looks scrumptious. I really don't have the time to make this... and yet I cannot resist. I think I'll try it tomorrow when the Big Freeze hits New York!

Zurg Returns

2009-01-12T13:33:00.003-05:00

Jasper turned five this weekend! My little baby. Does anyone else feel as if they have known their children forever--and yet it's all whizzed past in seconds?

I love planning Jasper's birthday parties but it's getting more and more difficult to fit all of his friends (and their parents, as is the custom here) in our tiny apartment. Somehow I managed to talk Jasper into postponing his party until the spring, when we could hold the party outdoors. But I wasn't off the hook for a birthday cake. Or another pile of presents. Can I please stop buying toys now?

All last week I kept asking Jasper what kind of cake he wanted, each time hoping for a different answer. Each time he gave the same answer: a Zurg cake. He doesn't remember our trip to Venice and Basel two years ago but he does remember the Zurg cake I made him just after the trip.

Anyway, in the intervening years Jasper has decided he does not like chocolate. Instead, he suggested a lemon cake and I was happy to comply. I used this very easy and delicious recipe from MSLO (my favorite source for cake recipes) and then I spent about two hours painstakingly making buttercream frosting from The Joy of Cooking.

This was pure insanity, as Jasper would have been perfectly satisfied with regular butter-and-powdered-sugar frosting. But buttercream frosting is divine, so glossy and luscious. So I made the sugar syrup and slowly whisked it into the eggs and then cooked it over a pan of hot water, and then beat in the butter a tablespoon at a time.

When it came time to actually decorate the cake I did not have enough food coloring to do a deep purple so the evil robot came out pink. Worse, I made a fatal error when drawing on his eyes/beak. Jasper complained that Zurg was THE WRONG COLOR and I growled at him for being so ungrateful, even though I was clearly slaving over the buttercream purely for my own benefit. Oh Jasper, I'm sorry your mommy isn't a nicer person.

In the end I scattered poppyseeds--sort of a pointilist way of coloring Zurg purple. (And hey, lemon poppyseed cake, yeah?) Good enough. We had a friend over and everyone liked the cake.

Savory cupcakes

2009-01-08T22:33:00.007-05:00

I've ranted here before about how I feel about sugar in schools, although if you bring it and I'm in the classroom I'll probably eat it. And fine, I was the one who brought a big bag of chocolate gelt on the last day before the holiday break.

But when Jasper's teacher asked if I was going to bring a treat for his birthday (which is Saturday) I said yes... something delicious but not sugary. I went home and lo and behold, there in the mail was the latest Cookie with recipes for cute mini meals you make with your cupcake tin. I pounced on the pizza pouches, altering to feed 18 instead of 6.

You can get pizza dough at many grocery stores and your local pizzeria, but not at the Food Coop. I made my own. Everything else I bought pre-made without shame.

1 cup warm water
1 package yeast
1 teaspoon honey
1 tablespoon olive oil
3-4 cups flour
pinch of flour
Combine yeast, honey, water. Proof in warm place until foamy. Combine with flour, salt, and olive oil and knead until smooth and elastic. Form into ball and let rise until twice its size.

I divided the dough into 24 balls and rolled each out into flat disks. Then spooned in a little sauce,

Dropped in a meatball and some grated cheese (hmm, must try these again with ricotta and ham sometime...)

Pinch at the top, brush with egg and milk, then bake. (UPDATE: line the cupcake tins with cornmeal!)

Voila, an explosion--

OK, it looks bad but they were fine. In fact, they were quite tasty. Do take care to pinch that dough together firmly. And don't let the dough in the bottom get too thin or the meatball and sauce will soak through, making them harder to remove from the pan 10 minutes after you should have delivered the pizza pouches to your son's classroom. Well, I made it up to Jasper by staying with his class for the rest of the afternoon. Oh, and another boy had his birthday today. His family brought Entemann's.

Further enlightenment

2009-01-08T22:18:00.003-05:00

Another vegan dinner from The Enlightened Kitchen!

This one was risky as Lane is not an eggplant fan. He hates that slimy texture it can get. I was careful to boil it until just soft and then drain it before adding the dressing (lemon juice, ume plum paste, olive oil, salt). I also added scallions as they always seem to go well with eggplant. Lane liked the dish.

Also, tofu sliced, marinated in soy sauce and mirin, and grilled with sesame seeds--my recipe.

And udon noodles with soy sauce, sesame oil, and toasted sesame seeds. This was all too easy for three dishes. I feel so Zen now.

Nellie Olsen pasta

2009-01-07T13:33:00.004-05:00

We had ricciole last night. I discovered the surprise after we started eating--the noodles uncurl into longer strands!

Hey, do me a favor...

2009-01-06T21:49:00.001-05:00

Go vote for Stephanie! Here.

The enlightened dinner

2009-01-06T13:26:00.003-05:00

It's the same every January. After the decadence of the holidays I find myself in the mood for simple Buddhist temple food--you know, lots of veggies, no heavy sauces, no cheese. I know some people go in for Master-Servant Maximum Toxic Cleanses. Gwyneth Paltrow's detox diet has been making the rounds through the Internets (shudder--castor oil is mentioned--need I say more?). Fortunately I do not have to resort to such extremes, for Lane also gifted me with The Enlightened Kitchen: Fresh Vegetable Dishes from the Temples of Japan.

So to kick off a new year of austerity and deprivation--Madoff take note--I made a salad of kidney beans, cannellini beans, and wakame (a seaweed) with lemon dressing. You can substitute with other beans, of course, and maybe even skip the wakame, depending on how you feel about seaweed, which can be a little tricky (read: slimy and gelatinous). The dressing is lemon juice, grapeseed oil, rice vinegar, salt, pepper, and white wine; I substituted sesame oil for the grapeseed and mirin for the white wine. This is a lovely balance between tart and bland, substantive and light.

Speaking of balance, maybe I shouldn't have made the spinach and mushrooms with lemon as well. Too much yin (right?). But this was so tasty. Blanch a head of spinach, drain well, chop, marinate a few minutes in soy sauce. Meanwhile, grill some shitake mushrooms, slice, and toss with the spinach with more soy sauce and some lemon juice.

I loved the ginger rice though I had a few problems with it. I messed with the measurments, trying to increase by half, and ended up with too much liquid. As you can see, I went well past dinnertime and had to keep the rice boiling uncovered for several minutes. Fortunately I used brown rice, which can hold up to abuse. Cook the rice with fresh ginger juice (grate, then squeeze), kombu, and a little soy sauce. Then top with some fresh minced ginger--oh so warming and nourishing!

I let Lane take the leftovers for lunch today and then regressed with a sandwich of grilled leftover roast beef, goat cheese and saurkraut. Well, I can only take so much enlightenment.

Happy New Year 2009

2009-01-02T00:39:00.003-05:00

I hope you all had a relaxing, fun, and delicious holiday season! I am sad that ours is already drawing to a close. I've enjoyed sleeping in and lavishing attention on Lane and Jasper.

Just recently Lane's mother became critically ill. She seems to be through the worst of it now, and we're hoping for the best. She's always been so healthy, "tough," as she always calls herself. That and the news of the current Israeli/Palestinian conflict made this moment seem--well, only trite expressions come to mind, precious, fleeting. As we prepare to welcome a new president and continue to face these dire economic times I keep finding myself holding my breath. One moment I see iron, the next moment butterfly wings.

A toast to you for the New Year.

What I Made for New Years

2009-01-02T00:21:00.006-05:00

One of my Christmas presents from Lane was The Silver Spoon, which is sort of like the Italian Joy of Cooking only much, much more. I can't even begin to tell you why this book is so wonderful. Actually, I can--it's well designed and organized, it has charming illustrations, also there are the recipes... Clever Laney, giving me cookbooks for Christmas.

I put it to use for New Years. Lane hates going out for this holiday (something about the cold and the pressure to have a fabulous, glamorous time) so lately we've been staying in. I'm not entirely happy about this, to tell you the truth, but I made the best of it. New Years Eve I made antipasti from Silver Spoon with varying success. I'll spare you the details, but suffice it to say it will be a while before anyone around here agrees to endive again.

Mysterious creatures from the cheese lagoon.

The glazed carrots with lemon were very good, though.

For New Years Day we started with shrimp fritters and a yummy sauce made with cream, tomato paste, and lemon juice.

For dinner we had roast beef with a wine/vegetable sauce. It's a terrible picture--kind of looks hairy. But it was fine--a bit dry. I don't know about marinating meat in wine or vinegar. The more I do it the more convinced I am that it can only damage the texture of the meat. Great sauce, though.

And we had broccolini sauteed in garlic and lemon juice.

Finally, for dessert a crostata with chocolate, hazelnuts, and orange. Here it is, baking in the oven. This was delectable, not least because of the perfect shortbread pastry crust recipe in Silver Spoon--made with lemon zest. I will enjoy these leftovers.

What I made for Christmas

2009-01-02T00:01:00.005-05:00

Here I am, at the end of New Year's Day, finally updating my blog after a long holiday. I'll give you just the food highlights.

On Christmas Eve the three of us attended our friend, Karen's party. The best part was when Jasper fell asleep and we turned up the music to dance. I made the al di la Swiss chard malfatti and another gingerbread bûche de noël, this time decorated with Papa Bubble candy. It included a marzipan mushroom, rabbit, and snake slithering over almond brittle. I hated leaving it behind.

After the toy-unwrapping frenzy, which was glorious, we had dinner with friends and neighbors. I roasted a capon, which you can see here (there's something just vulgar about this photo--I'll have to remember to photograph from the other end next time). I stuffed butter with lemon juice and thyme under the skin and filled the cavity with lemon halves and more thyme. I also gave it a salt rub; most poultry will benefit from such spa treatments. It did pretty much taste like chicken, only slightly different.

I also made a crudités platter, which I copied from a baby shower I just attended. Usually the crudités platter consitst of the same tiresome combinations--doesn't anyone get sick of confronting yet another plate of baby carrots and hummos? But Vicky's had raddishes, radicchio, and grown-up carrots cut into long, curly sticks. Her yogurt sauce is made with minced fresh ginger and scallions. So tasty and easy. And don't you think it looks especially festive for the holidays?

Tuna casserole

2008-12-21T22:01:00.003-05:00

I made a tuna casserole the other night. I saw the tuna a la king on Chez What and it just looked good. I believe this may have been my very first tuna casserole, though it may not be my last.

I made a bechamel and then added lots and lots of sharp cheddar cheese. Then I stirred in the tuna (canned in olive oil) and the pasta, and then finally the peas straight from the freezer (so they wouldn't go mushy). Then I topped it all with a little parmigiana and baked it in the oven for about 20 minutes.

It was only after dinner that Lane told me the ideal topping for tuna casserole is potato chip crumbs--which is all the more tragic since I actually threw away a bag of potato chip crumbs just that afternoon.

Also this weekend I read Swizzy's last dispatch of her travels, which induced another dinner of goulash and polenta. This was Friday night, when we were in the midst of a blizzard, so this was just the thing for such weather.

Tinned fish and other pleasures

2008-12-21T21:51:00.002-05:00

I've been buying these tinned fish by Cole's. Mackerel is an excellent choice, by the way. It's high in Omegas but lower in Mercury. Also a sustainable fish. Cole's applewood smoked trout is also very good.

Isn't this a pretty salad? It's just romaine with herbed chevre, dried figs, and pecans. This was dinner one night.

Christmas cookies

2008-12-21T18:47:00.007-05:00

What does it mean to be compulsive, anyway? Just because I absolutely have to make peppermint candy cane cookies even though I have no desire to actually eat them. That doesn't mean Lane can call me compulsive.

Takes one to know one, by the way.

Here's the disappointing thing about peppermint candy cane cookies, though: if you use the goody-goody "natural" plant-derived food coloring the dough will be sort of more plum than red, and when the cookies bake they will turn out sort of sepia toned, which is charming for antique photos but not so much for cookies.

But more important than peppermint candy cane cookies are the spiced cookies. I believe I got this recipe from Saveur. Cookies are very personal. I don't know if these cookies will do it for you like they do it for me, but they just make me so very, irrationally, happy. They come out plain and brown, and it may not even occur to your guests to pick them up and eat them, which is good. More for you that way.

Spice Drop Cookies

Use a spice or cleaned coffee grinder to grind the following spices together:
10 allspice berries
5 cardamom pods
5 black peppercorns
1 clove
1 star anise
1 small nutmeg

Sift together spice mixture with:
2 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda

Cream together:
12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) butter
1 cup sugar

Add:
1 large egg
1/3 cup molasses

Combine dry ingredients with butter mixture. Drop tablespoon-sized bits of dough on cookie sheet and bake 8-11 minutes. If you bake until crisp they will still have some chewiness to them. Marvelous.